Into the West
Cafe European is a suburban surprise that's worth the drive
Set with bentwood chairs and unclad tables, the pinkish dining room has some of the homely sweetness of that apple-and-ice-cream dessert. Sectioned into cozy alcoves with homemade, faintly skewed plywood partitions and bric-a-brac-laden shelving, planted with those hopelessly unfashionable mother-in-law's-tongues, it exudes a comfortable, shoestring air. Flower bouquets painted by the chef hang on the walls; so do his yellowed press clippings, copper pans and cowbells. The multicultural staff, which runs from Hispanic to kicker to Amerasian, is just as sweet, just as unslick -- and a microcosm of the far west Houston world to which Cafe European is such a useful addition.
Travel tip: if you cross Highway 6 going west, you've gone a couple of blocks too far.
Cafe European, 13920 Westheimer, 558-6867.
Cafe European:
Escargots in pepper sauce, $5.75;
goulash soup, $1.50;
jaeger schnitzel $10.50.
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