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One Man's Meat

At Lynn's Steakhouse, it's still the age of the carnivore

And I feel favorably disposed toward my lobster leftovers, too. "We're well versed in the ancient doggy-bag rites," a staffer tells me archly; it is one of the best sentences I have ever heard uttered in a restaurant.

It's accurate, too. A chic, hunter-green sack is produced and hung jauntily over the back of a chair. It is worthy of the Galleria. I take it home. The next day, I chop up the prodigious amount of lobster inside and toss it with Michael Cordua's (as in Churrascos and Americas) Amazon Sauce, available at a la-di-da retailer near you. Then I eat it, feeling like a genius.

Lynn's Steakhouse, 955 1/2 Dairy Ashford, 870-0807.

Lynn's Steakhouse:
veal rib eye, $28.95;
breathtakingly expensive, market-priced Australian lobster tail, who knows?

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