Pedigree Counts

Arcodoro has some growing up to do, but Dacapo's already does its parents proud

Comments (0) By Joanne Harrison Thursday, Nov 14 1996

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Neighbors met for coffee and cake; some adventurous downtown office workers came for lunch; but at no time were more than two dozen people able to sardine themselves into places at the nine tiny marble-topped tables. Even half-empty, the tidy little black-and-white space seemed crowded. Most of the room was taken up with glass cases displaying the twins' cakes, pastries and to-die-for chocolate truffles, to say nothing of giveaway newspapers and local artwork. Heights denizens loved the place, and folks came from far and wide to carry home loaves of the crusty fresh breads. The owners began to collect names for a mailing list, figuring that someday they might expand. And in October, they did -- but nothing in the patisserie's history led anyone to expect the quantum leap from the funk of the Heights to the high style of Dacapo's on the Parkway.

At the back of the 1920's Spanish-colonial-style building on Allen Parkway once known as La Posada, Dacapo's owners found a lovely, high-ceilinged space, which they had decorated by a longtime friend from Austin. With handmade drapes and raku-looking floor tiles from Mexico, to say nothing of the homage to Diego Rivera paintings and flowers everywhere, the interior beautifully frames Dacapo's food.

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Arcodoro Ristorante Italiano

5000 Westheimer
Houston, TX 77056

Category: Restaurant > Italian

Region: Galleria

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The small, simple menu relies heavily on the strengths of the bakery (which continues), offering a number of sandwiches built on bakery-made sun-dried tomato herb bread. The Healthy Pollo Supreme sandwich ($5.95) is both hearty and light, with slices of fresh-cooked chicken breast, provolone cheese and lettuce and tomato, complemented by the just-chewy-enough herbed bread. It comes with a side of pasta salad, but with Dacapo's Salad Maison ($3), simple mixed greens in a gorgeous homemade praline creole-mustard vinaigrette, it's a serious meal. Or consider the soup of the day ($2.95/$3.95); it's always interesting. On one recent visit, small new potato quarters, kernels of roasted corn, bits of green onion, red bell pepper and just a hint of cream melded perfectly in a light chicken stock. It was simply splendid.

The new entrees are simple and splendid as well. The Goat Cheese and Spinach Stuffed Packages ($8.95) sounds weird, and even looks a little strange. But trust me on this: It TASTES. The packages are actually sheets of fresh pasta layered with spinach and goat cheese, folded and cut, then rolled in herbed bread crumbs (making the outside a bit dry for my taste), then tied with thready ribbons of green chive and served with a savory sauce of fresh garlic and tomato.

The desserts, as you might expect from Lisa Biggerstaff, who's still in the bakery's pastry kitchen, are world-class. If you want to think you've died and gone to heaven, all you have to do is end your meal with Lisa's croissant pudding ($4.95). Surprising with almond slices and fresh strawberries, sybaritic with buttery melting caramel and whiskey sauce, it is the ne plus ultra of bread puddings.

If you plan to enjoy Dacapo's on a Friday night, however, best make reservations. In the restaurant business, as in Burke's Peerage, pedigree counts. And the fans of Dacapo's original establishment are already telling friends.

Arcodoro, 5000 Westheimer, 621-6888; Dacapo's on the Parkway, 3411 D'amico (at Allen Parkway), 942-9141.