Colombian Supremo

Since Anoranza's doesn't have a liquor license, it serves only soft drinks. Barely worth trying is the manzana soda, a fizzy pink apple juice that has a very artificial taste that bears little to no resemblance to apples. The agua de panela, however, is a curiously addictive concoction made of unrefined sugar melted in hot water. This comes close to being sickly sweet, but is pulled from the brink by the addition of lemon juice, which lends balance to the almost caramelized flavor of the sugar.

The bandeja montanera, literally a mountain or farmer's platter, is probably more food than any farmer could put away. It consists of a churrasco steak -- a thin piece of New York strip marinated in wine and beer that's tender through and through, with a nice smoky flavor -- a chicharron similar to the one served as an appetizer and a chorizo that, though somewhat mealy, is well-seasoned. The side dishes, all on the same large platter, include plain white rice, something ubiquitous in Colombian cuisine; a bowl of red beans, thick in a dark brown sauce; a patacon, or whole plantain sliced in half and fried; and some perfunctory lettuce and tomato. The whole thing is topped off with a fried egg. When the egg is cut up on top of and mixed in with the rice, it makes for a wonderful dish.

The pollo Anoranza, one of the house specialties, is very much like a chicken fricassee. Its thin slices of chicken, beautifully intertwined with red and green bell peppers and tomatoes, make for a very simple, yet very tasty dish. It's served with rice, half a plantain, some lettuce and tomato. The sobrebarriga, one of the national dishes of Colombia, where it's normally served as flank steak, is here served as pork. Unfortunately, this is one of those off-the-menu specials that the waitress didn't easily proffer, which means that it's not always available. It is, however, worth asking for. Yet another simple dish, the sobrebarriga was a thin side of pork cut close to the ribs but containing no bones. It hardly seemed seasoned at all. In fact, it was probably only grilled. Yet its simplicity was its appeal. The full flavor of the pork was allowed to dominate. Though the same side dishes seem to be served with virtually every entree, the sobrebarriga was enhanced by something different, a warm potato salad in which were mixed onions, carrots, peas and a good helping of mayonnaise.

Another pork dish worth discovering is the chuleta de cerdo. This is not, as one might expect, a pork chop, but rather an almost paper-thin, seasoned and breaded pork loin that is simply fried. The marvel is how they get a pork loin thin enough to cover almost an entire plate. The lengua en salsa, or smothered tongue, may not appeal to everyone, but it is truly a delectable dish. It's more like a stew in consistency. Mixed with tomatoes and onions, the tongue is so soft and tender that it falls apart in one's mouth.

One caveat: In case knowing that the restaurant is Colombian elevates your expectations of the coffee, allow me to disappoint you sooner rather than later. The coffee is, at best, a watery brew; at worst, it might even have been instant. A pity. But in the grand scheme of Anoranza's offerings, it's hardly a crime.

Anoranza's Tavern Restaurant, 9336 Richmond Avenue, 785-9994.

Anoranza's Tavern Restaurant:
empanada, $1; chicharron frito con arepa, $3; bandeja montanera, $8.95; pollo Anoranza, $7.95; chuleta de cerdo, $8.95; lengua en salsa, $7.95.