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A Fish Tale

On Airline Drive, the Chung family turns seafood into something golden

The entrees are prepared in one of three ways: fried, grilled or steamed -- very basic, very simple, yet very effective. Those who can suspend their preoccupation with fat grams long enough to enjoy the fried fish won't be disappointed. The batter used gently envelops the seafood, allowing its flavor to dominate. It is so light that almost no grease is visible on the plate. A good sampling of this is available on the seafood lover's platter, which consists of two pieces of whitefish, oysters, shrimp, scallops and a stuffed crab, but I was more taken by one of the specials, a whole catfish replete with head and tail that's fried to a golden brown and served with either french fries or the special fried rice.

Variety is all well and good, but at Golden, I've found that focusing on a single fish is best.

Golden Seafood House, 2407 Airline Drive, 802-9989.

Golden Seafood House:
sopa de mariscos, $4.50;
seafood soup, $2.65;
sopa de camaron, $3.75;
shrimp cocktail, $5.95;
vuelve a la vida, $10.95;
calamari, $4.50;
whole catfish, $4.99;
Golden garlic shrimp, $5.95;
seafood lover's platter, $8.95;
house special fried rice, $3.95.

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