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Curries and Quietude

A brasserie that's anything but brassy

The Bombay Brasserie is a good-looking place. A large room with windows on two sides and a bar in the rear, it boasts a handsome stamped-tin ceiling and -- best of all -- well-spaced tables. "I like it," said my female companion. "There's room to swing a cat."

If you're not in a mood to choose from the menu, four complete dinners are available: The Maharaja, The Maharani of Jaipur's Pleasure, Shakahara Thali and The Viceroy of India. That last was something of a surprise. The people at the Bombay Brasserie bear their colonial overlords no ill will, apparently. Which, if true, does them enormous credit.

The Bombay Brasserie, 5160 Richmond, 355-2000.

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