As we reported last week, much has changed since the Cortes Deli, now the Cortes Restaurant, moved from a humble strip center on Alabama to new premises at 404 Shepherd. But there are continuities as well: Many of the faces here will be familiar to Deliheads, and so will some of the menu. Migas, for example: a sublime concoction of eggs and tomatoes and onions and tortilla chips heated in a pan until it becomes a glorious, gluttonous mass. And if gluttonous isn't enough for you -- if you want really gluttonous -- ask them to toss in cheese. Your doctor may upbraid you for it. But what the hell! Migas are served with pico de gallo, refried beans and tortillas -- corn or flour, it's your choice. (Decisions! Decisions!) This is peasant food at its most inspired. And a bargain at $5.95.