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Jah's Will Be Done

At Jamaica-Me-Crazy, whatever dessert will be, will be

The menu lists only four desserts: cheesecake ($2.95), apple pie ($2.95), the cake of the day ($2.75) and ice cream ($3.25). Four desserts -- and prosaic ones at that -- don't seem nearly enough. The Caribbean is famous for its sweets and puddings. There's brown-sugar fudge and mango fool; coconut bars and guava cheese (not cheese at all, but a pulp made of guava paste and sugar); and the much-loved Dunkanoo (the word is thought to be African), a paste made of sugar, grated corn and coconut milk, wrapped in banana leaves and steamed.

"What is the cake of the day?" I asked the waitress. "Apple pie," she said. Which raised all sorts of questions, the most pressing of which was this: If, when you order the cake of the day, you're given apple pie, does this mean that if you order apple pie, you'll be given the cake of the day? I know. It makes the head reel.

Jamaica-Me-Crazy, 9347 1/2 Richmond, 339-2201.

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