The trifle I gorged on as a child was a monstrous thing, including among its list of ingredients a jelly roll, slivered almonds, peach slices, grated chocolate and lots and lots of sherry. God, how I loved it. No more, though. These days, when visions of trifle dance in my head, I think of The Black Labrador (4100 Montrose, 529-1199), where the trifle ($4.50) is lighter, simpler and more contemporary. Instead of the jelly roll of my youth, the Lab uses pound cake, which is drizzled with honey, layered with custard cream and topped with raspberry sauce. It's not just a classic. It's trifle-icious as well.