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I don't understand the antipathy with which some people regard lamb. Lamb is a gift from a beneficent God. And if you doubt that, you owe it to yourself to visit Khyber North Indian (2510 Richmond, 942-9424). Khyber serves some of the best lamb dishes around. That's no accident. At Khyber, the meat, most often hailing from Colorado, is always bought fresh. My special favorite is Barah kabab ($12.95), leg meat cut into pieces and grilled. The lamb doesn't taste gamy at all. In fact, rubbed with garlic and vinegar, it's surprisingly delicate and very, very tender. Try it with a glass of the house merlot. They make a great combination.

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