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I was quite put off by the idea of eating oxtails. They seemed so unprepossessing. Until I remembered all the other unprepossessing things I've consumed: monkey, sheep's eyes, brains, chicken feet, tongue, alligator.... After that, oxtails didn't seem much of a stretch. And boy, am I glad I took the plunge. At This Is It (207 Gray, 659-1608) you can get a plate of these things -- along with three vegetables -- for a mere $6.50. And while it's true that oxtails are never going to win any beauty contests, they're unbelievably delicious. The bones are a bit of a drag, but the meat is fork-tender and boasts a gravy so rich from all that bone marrow, it's almost gelatinous. I could kick myself for not trying them sooner. But I know better now. I'll never be picky again.

1998

 
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