Another boquita -- a particularly large one, it turned out -- was the sauteed mussels ($6.50) served with jalapenos, tomatillo, garlic, tomatoes, cilantro and a white-wine sauce. As good as the mussels were, the broth was even better. It contained too much salt, perhaps. And yes, someone had been overly generous with the lime juice. But oh, how irresistibly briny it tasted. It provided one of those felicitous moments -- all too rare, unfortunately -- when you chance on something so captivating, it transforms you. For days afterward, I thought only of that broth.
The mussels come with a wonderful flat bread perfect for mopping. And boy, didI mop.