How do I spell relief? The way everyone does: B-R-E-A-D P-U-D-D-I-N-G. There's lots of great bread pudding in Houston. It's one of the reasons I live here. But the very, very best is the chocolate/sour-cherry kind ($6.50) available at, what for bread-pudding lovers, is Rome and Jerusalem and Gwyneth Paltrow's place on Central Park West all rolled into one: Boulevard Bistrot, 4319 Montrose, 524-6922. Is it possible that, somewhere in the world, there's a bread pudding better than this one is? Naw! How could there be? This one's perfect. All that Valrhona chocolate; all those sun-dried cherries; all that slightly curdled creme anglaise.... I get teary-eyed just thinking about it. It even looks great. What other bread pudding do you know that comes to the table so mushy, it brings to mind those melting timepieces Salvador Dali used to paint? Men have left their wives for bread pudding like this. And I, for one, don't blame them.