Mix Master

Pignetti's does a good job of blending flavors from Europe, Asia and the American Southwest

For the most part, we were pleased with our entrees as well. The airline chicken breast ($14.95) -- called such because part of the wing is present -- is served on a bed of orzo so delicious it tastes like a good risotto. But best of all was the exquisite lime-chipotle cream. Eating it, I thought I was kissing God. The pork chops ($18.95) didn't disappoint, either. A variation on what the French call pork Orloff, these chops were great, sturdy things. Dredged in seasoned flour and pan-fried, they come with two cabbages sauteed in apple-cider vinegar.

The only entree not to produce a storm of acclaim was the etouffee of shrimp and andouille sausage. Served, the menu says, with creole vegetables, scallion linguine and roasted-garlic cream, it certainly stirred our interest. But while the flavors in the other dishes had been well delineated, this one tasted a little muddy. Perhaps Mr. Pignetti might consider retooling it. For the moment, it seems slightly out of focus.

Pignetti's, 414 West Gray, 522-8488.

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