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Don't go looking for Tikka in your world atlas. I did, and couldn't find it. There's a very good reason for that. Tikka is not a place. It's a fillet -- as in lamb tikka and chicken tikka. I owe my atlas an apology. I should never have thrown it across the room and jumped up and down on its spine. But I plan to make amends. When it's up and about again, I'm going to take it to Bombay Palace (3901 Westheimer, 960-8472) where the chicken tikka ($13.95) is to die for. The chicken is marinated in yogurt, ginger and lemon juice, cooked in a clay oven, and served in a sauce of yogurt, saffron and paprika. According to the Upanishads, "food is God." Eat this, and you'll understand why. To make the occasion really special, order a Kingfisher beer. I know; I don't like it, either. But with a name like that, who could resist?

 
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