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Mmm-mmm, chili pie: It's a puzzlement to Yankees and a sentimental icon for
Texans. When your inner child cries out for a little Southern comfort, feed it at the Fox Diner [905 Taft, (713) 523-5369] on real chili pie made with Fritos ($9). Chef Tom Williams's chili is dark and rich, with a grown-up whiff of chipotle. The deeply satisfying mess of corn chips, tender meat and caramelized onions is authentically served in the shiny, red and yellow Fritos bag, topped with a pile of grated Cheddar and a fat dollop of sour cream. "We've served chili pie since day one," says Williams. "It's sort of our touchstone. I mean, how seriously can you take yourself when you've got chili pie on the menu

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