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Part of the fun at Maxim's [3755 Richmond Ave., (713)877-8899] is guessing which member of the swankienda set the greens are named after. I've figured out Schlumberger Salad and Salad Halbouty on my own, but who, pray tell, inspired the Sassy Southern Veal Salad? Never mind. It's still one of my favorite retro Big Salads: strips of lean marinated veal atop a jumble of conservative lettuces, zucchini and squash matchsticks, martini-worthy green and black olives and pretty little fans of carrot. Maybe it's the tangy, creamy Italian dressing that's supposed to be sassy. Better yet is the accompanying cup of fluffy cheese spread spiked with green onions and Worcestershire, flanked by genuine Melba toast rounds. Wake me when oil booms again, okay

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