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The Meat of the Matter

Why do people go to steak houses? Steak & Chophouse on the Boulevard doesn't know.

The low point of the service occurred after we finished our entrées. We had asked for a doggie bag. Instead of clearing the plates and packaging the leftovers back in the kitchen, the waiter brought out two white Styrofoam clams (ugh!) and scraped the leftovers into them right at the table. And as we watched, he picked up the baked potato with his hands to insert it into the Styrofoam. I know, I know: This kind of thing goes on all the time in the kitchen. But that doesn't mean I want to see it.

The desserts, at least, reached a level of okayness. The warm chocolate torte with vanilla bean ice cream ($5) was pretty good, with a nicely gooey Hershey-bar center, but I've had better. Same with the Doubletree cookies-and-cream ice cream sundae ($5). Even with those semi-legendary Doubletree cookies, the sundae managed to be only adequate.

If push comes to shove, you can put together a halfway decent meal at the S&C, and since it's housed in the Doubletree Hotel, the place will probably seem like a boon to its captive audience of expense-account road warriors. But with Morton's of Chicago Steakhouse, Tony's and Cafe Annie all within spitting distance, why would a Houstonian bother? It is, unfortunately, a most unnecessary restaurant.

Steak & Chophouse on the Boulevard, Doubletree Hotel, 2001 Post Oak, (713)968-1309.

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