Hot Plate

Comments (0) By Lisa Gray Thursday, Sep 2 1999
Anthony Butkovich

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Talking Turkey: A wrapped-in-plastic turkey sandwich that dares to cost $5 had better be fabulous. Luckily for us all, the one at the Empire Baking Company [1616 Post Oak Boulevard, (713)871-9779] deserves every penny of its price tag. Peppers are the dominant motif: Green slivers of jalapeño speckle the exemplary cheese bread; black pepper enlivens the thin-sliced turkey; and a red-pepper mayo adds even more zip. Somehow all that heat manages to be subtle and complicated, leaving you able to appreciate the creaminess of the Monterey Jack, the freshness of the little Roma tomatoes, the almost excessive greenness of the leaf lettuce. And how do they slice Bermuda onions so thin?

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