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By Margaret L. Briggs
Published on October 14, 1999
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Anthony Butkovich
Yes, This Is Houston: Superb fried chicken at a Vietnamese steak house? Oh, why the heck not? The succulent Cajun-fried Cornish hen at Super Steak & More [2826 Kirby, (713)523-3200] will suspend your disbelief. The trick, says owner Joe Ng, is deep-frying the plump little hens in a flash of pure vegetable oil, which renders the skin super-crispy while keeping the meat within moist and tender. We suspect the real magic is his "secret blend of spices" rubbed in after the frying's done: garlicky and spicy with just a touch of sweetness, a little bit Asian, a little bit Cajun. The dinner plate ($10.95) includes a whole Cornish hen, your choice of two vegetable sides, a house salad and a sweet yellow dinner roll. At lunchtime get a half-hen with the same trimmings for only $6.99. You can dine in at the tiny cafe next door to Becks Prime, pick up orders to go or ask for home delivery in a limited area. Nice touch: Each item in your go-box is carefully wrapped in foil before Styrofoam boxing, so what's hot stays hot. (Oh, and did we mention the steaks are darned good, too?)
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