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What Tex-Mex?

The fish is so good at Tampico, you'll ignore its other treats

The menu offers classic Tex-Mex food -- fajitas, tacos al carbon and the like -- as well as traditional fried seafood; but to be honest, I could never bring myself to order anything but the seafood a la plancha. (If anyone does sample the enchiladas, please let me know how they are.) I did, however, get around to trying the stuffed crab ($3.95 for two), and it was terrific -- garlicky crab, fried golden-brown and crusty and served with an unusual, almost pickleless tartar sauce.

There are only two desserts, cheesecake and flan. I am generally too stuffed with seafood even to contemplate cheesecake, but the flan, light, creamy and not too sweet ($3.50), fills in the cracks perfectly.

But really, the seafood is the thing here. Open since 1996, Tampico already qualifies as a personal favorite. Flatly stated, I love this place.

Tampico Seafood and Restaurant, 2115 Airline, (713)862-8425.

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