Okay, I could ask for more tender beef or a little less sugar at Thai Emerald. These minor quibbles are like puppy-kicking in front of a small child who's enjoying a bedtime story. After all, it's not necessary that your favorite neighborhood cafe be perfect. When it's close to your home, it only needs to be very good, friendly when you need comforting and fast when you're cranky. On these suburban counts that matter most, Thai Emerald does very well indeed.