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But all of that is ancient history for much of the American electorate. Today McCain is reaping the benefits of his recent maverick act, as scores of Democrats and Independents across the country vote for him in GOP primaries.
But there is one area where it is unlikely that John McCain will ever emerge as a champion of reform: alcohol.
When he was elected to Congress, McCain swore he'd recuse himself on all votes related to the alcohol industry, given his father-in-law's and wife's business. And he has. But such votes are relatively insignificant when compared to other powers endowed on a senator -- particularly a senior senator who chairs an influential committee.
Particularly if the senator is John McCain, the committee is the powerful Senate Commerce Committee, and the issue is alcohol.
The Senate Commerce Committee has a number of alcohol-related issues in its purview, including the labeling of alcoholic beverages and the regulation of alcohol advertising. But you wouldn't know it from looking at the committee's agenda since McCain took its reins three years ago.
John McCain's influence regarding alcohol-related legislation comes from his inaction, rather than action. As a committee chairman, McCain has the unilateral power to kill a bill simply by refusing to put it on a committee agenda or schedule hearings.
And since McCain was elected chairman of the committee in January 1997, that's exactly what has happened.
George Hacker, director of the Alcohol Policies Project of the Center for Science in the Public Interest, says it's very hard to get alcohol-related legislation heard in Congress, and more difficult since McCain took the helm of the Senate Commerce Committee. "Having someone with no interest and who really refuses to take an interest in alcohol is a serious problem in the Commerce Committee," Hacker says.
But does mere indifference actually benefit the liquor industry?
"Well, sure," Hacker replies. "If the chairman has a problem dealing with these issues, he'll go on to something else."
In fact, three alcohol-related bills have been assigned to McCain's committee since he became chairman, and none has been taken up. All three were sponsored by Senator Strom Thurmond, a South Carolina Republican. All deal with alcoholic beverage labeling and are vociferously opposed by alcohol interests.
And then there's the matter of the alcohol advertising hearings the Senate Commerce Committee was set to hold in early 1997. Scheduled in late 1996, before McCain became chairman, they were rescheduled, put off, and, in the end, never held.
Unless George W. Bush delivers a powerful counterpunch to McCain's swelling bandwagon, John McCain will be standing on the Republican party podium at debates paid for by the King of Beers.
At his side will be Cindy.
Beer baron James Willis Hensley will probably be back home in Phoenix.
And all three could be hoping the bright lights of television will continue to distract voters from a persistent croaking sound echoing from history's murky, noisy swamp.
Amy Silverman and John Dougherty are staff writers for Phoenix New Times. Norma Gomez contributed research to this column.