Quel Confort: One would think the French are above such plebeian tastes, but Frédéric Perrier, chef/owner of the namesake Café Perrier[4304 Westheimer, (713)355-4455], has developed a delicious French twist on an all-American comfort food: macaroni and cheese. Befitting the country charm of the bistro, the gratin de macaroni is made of simple, yet sophisticated, penne pasta swimming in a rich, bubbly Parmesan-and-truffle cream sauce, topped with a dollop of goat cheese and caramelized in a broiler before serving. Perrier tried to replace the popular side dish on his horseradish-encrusted pork loin ($18.75), but patrons revolted. Now he's bringing it back, with an entrée or without ($6.95). Do you think he could do something about Jerry Lewis?