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Raging Hormones

Frédéric Perrier

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By Robb Walsh

Published on July 27, 2000

Speaking off the toque:
Frédéric Perrier, chef and owner of Café Perrier, 4304 Westheimer, (713)355-4455

Q. Are the French really worried about hormones, or are they just jealous because America has better beef?

A.They're jealous. The French love American beef. But anything they can't produce they must find something wrong with. I can say that, I'm French. And if it wasn't hormones, it would be something else. There's something new to worry about every day.

I serve USDA prime rib eyes at my restaurant, and they are gorgeous. The quality of beef here is the best I've ever seen. Americans don't appreciate how good their beef is. They don't like it with too much marbling or too much aging. The French go crazy over this kind of meat.