If you've never been baited by the fish or shrimp tacos ($3.25 each) at Berryhill Hot Tamales [2639 Revere, (713)526-8080; 1717 Post Oak, (713)871-TACO], let us be the first to tell you: They're the kind of thing you can easily get hooked on. Invented there in the early '90s, these compact bundles have inspired ersatz copies all over town, yet none as good as the originals, which have a light, creamy yogurt-mayo sauce mixed with chili powder for a little zip. Two light corn tortillas engulf the contents -- fish or shrimp, grilled or fried, topped with shredded red cabbage and field greens. The crispy shrimp version is served with a delicious rémoulade, while the crispy fish version has a wonderful Dijon sauce. All are equally good; you'll just have to see which one lures you.