Time Capsule

Adorned with souvenir plates from states such as California and Florida, the walls at Mama's Cafe[6019 Westheimer, (713)266-8514] are a virtual travelogue of the United States. The dishware on display takes me back to the kitchens of my grade-school chums. Along with the aroma of Mama's cooking, it evokes a Proustian nostalgia for tuna noodle casserole, Jell-O molds and other fondly remembered bad tastes. Mama's liver and onions special strikes an especially deep, emotive chord. Likewise, Mama's frozen daiquiri takes me back to a simpler era of slushy drinks.

Mama's Frozen DaiquiriThe original daiquiri was a simple sweet-and-sour cocktail made with rum, lime juice and sugar. The frozen daiquiri came into vogue about the same time the blender appeared in the kitchen. It was the first frozen drink my dad ever made. Over the years, the slushy treats have become ever more exotic. Mama's "acting bartender" Tony Morales whipped up this frozen daiquiri, which is a tribute to the original. The only twist is the flavored rum, which gives the cocktail an added citrus kick.

3 shots Bacardi Limón
1/4 cup (3 heaping tablespoons) frozen limeade concentrate
1 1/2 cups crushed ice
Lime slice

Put the limeade concentrate and crushed ice in a blender, pour the rum over the top and puree until slushy. Serve in a festive glass garnished with lime. Yields one large cocktail.