Booze in a Blender

The salsa rhythms pouring out of the sound system at Bossa, downtown's trendy new Cuban bar and nuevo Latino restaurant [610 Main Street, (713)223-2622], are punctuated by the charming chirps of crickets. I ask bartender David Anderson if the crickets are part of the tape. He tells me they are real crickets that somehow got behind the bar, and they are driving him crazy. Anderson doesn't make any of Papa Hemingway's favorite cócteles, but he does make a smooth mango daiquiri. It goes great with the tower of iced seviche and escabeches known as the Big Seafood Platter.

Bossa's mango daiquiri: Fresh mangos give the drink a slick feel in your mouth, but when they're out of season you can use the nectar instead. Key limes (a.k.a. small Mexican limes) taste much better in this drink than the larger Persian limes, which are actually closer in flavor to lemons.

3 shots Bacardi rum
1/4 fresh mango, peeled and chopped
Juice of 1 key lime
1 cup crushed ice
Lime slices for garnish

Combine all the ingredients except the lime slices in a blender and puree until slushy. Pour into an oversize martini glass. Garnish with a lime slice.Makes one large serving.