Grecian Formula

The name may be Greek to you, but the taste will be instantly familiar when you bite into the tantalizing tiropitakia at Mykonos Island[2181 Portsmouth, (713)523-4114]. The classic Greek appetizer ($3.95) is packed with four -- count 'em, four -- kinds of cheeses: feta, Romano, Parmesan and ricotta. They're all wrapped in phyllo dough that has been brushed with olive oil and butter, then baked. This explains the rich, flaky texture. But what about the distinct taste? Owner Frixos "Phillip" Hrisinis says it's "just a little, little bit" of the world's oldest flavor enhancer, salt. Still, we suspect the spice is responsible for punching up the already salty feta, causing a mini-mouth explosion. Now that's what we call a cheese whiz.