For those who pay homage to the stone crab by making regular pilgrimages to Joe's in Miami Beach, you may be heartened to know that you can find these delicacies much closer to home. Truluck's Steak and Stone Crab [5919 Westheimer, (713)783-7270] serves up "morro" crab every bit as good as Joe's. Stone crabs are a tricky thing: If not prepared correctly, not only does the shell stick to the claw meat, but the meat turns stringy and watery. But not these babies. They're sweet without a hint of wateriness (which would indicate they'd been frozen). The freshness is a tribute to the folks at Truluck's: Using their own boats in Florida, they cook their crabs right on the dock, pack them in ice and fly them in daily. They are served with a simple melted butter or a spicy mustard sauce. Now you can save the airfare to Florida.