We were intrigued by the shrimp-and-crab cheesecake ($9.95) at La Griglia [2002 West Gray, (713)526-4700], and since there would appear no divine law that mandates cheesecake be served only for dessert, we decided to test Providence. The three-inch-high wedge comes on a bed of creamy pesto, awash with shrimp and chunks of sweet, succulent lump crabmeat. The accompanying breads, wonderful in their own right, help to sop up excess sauce. The cheesecake is made with mascarpone, a delicately flavored cheese, and is served warm. Its mousselike consistency, both soft and delicate, is ethereal. With every other mouthful, your taste buds discover even more shrimp or crabmeat, making for a divine juxtaposition of textures. You are not likely to find a better combination of these celestial crustaceans anywhere.