Summer in Houston is all about seeking cold comfort, not another excuse to sweat. But trust us, you won't mind wiping your brow once or twice for the crawfish zydeco salad ($8.95) at Copeland's of New Orleans (6353 Richmond Ave., 713-953-9448). This Louisiana dish is tossed with spinach, tomatoes, boiled eggs, red onions, crumbled blue cheese and spicy fried crawfish tails. The real kick in the pants, however, comes from its surprisingly sweet Creole mustard. Its sugar coating lulls your taste buds into a false sense of security before socking them with a one-two punch of spicy mustard and artful brush strokes of Tabasco sauce lining the bowl. It's a toss-up as to which is more potent. Not that it matters. Either way, you'll be whistling "Dixie."