The in-laws may be fodder for jokes, but the barbecue is no laughing matter at Brother-in-Law's (503 Freeport Street, 713-453-2676). This 25-year-old family operation in east Harris County rides herd on some of the best 'cue in the state. Trust us, you haven't really wrestled a rack of ribs until you've tried these. The best time to do so is during Wednesday night's all-you-can-eat rib special ($9.50). One bite of the tender, fall-off-the-bone pork (with sauce on the side, thank you very much), and true rib-gnawing aficionados will realize they need more than a single plate ($6.25) offers. So give in to temptation and join the locals who crowd this recently remodeled shrine to slow-cooked, dry-rubbed meat that's sure to stick to your ribs.