The humble tamale may be the most authentic Texian dish there is. Spanish explorers found the native residents of the region now known as South Texas preparing tamales from a masa of ground mesquite beans filled with ant eggs. These may have been perfectly delicious, but they are certainly hard to find nowadays. Instead, Goode Company Texas Seafood (2621 Westpark, 713-523-7154) mixes the traditional corn masa harina tamale with the contemporary Texan's favorite invertebrate, the shrimp. The tamales, a new menu item at Goode Company, can be had in orders of three ($7.95) or six ($13.95). The delicate cylinders are steamed Yucatan-style (inside a banana leaf wrapper rather than a cornhusk) and served with a dish of a tomato-based salsa campeche. The flavor of the dish is a Mexican meld of cumin, garlic and peppers, but it also has the iodine tang of the sea that really good, fresh shrimp possess. Jim Goode has done it again!