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Green Peace

Frankie B. Mandola's Steaks and Burgers

For a shot of Southern comfort that soothes the soul better than booze, head for Frankie B. Mandola's Steaks and Burgers (5333 Kirby, 713-529-1266). There, you'll find some of the best fried green tomatoes ($3.99) south of the Mason-Dixon Line. And yes, just about all fried green tomatoes are songs of the South. Frankie B.'s lesser-known bread-crumb style is made with the fresh crumbs of whatever homemade bread is available that day. The plump, superfresh tomatoes are first doused in milk and then dredged and deep-fried. It's an appetizer of six to ten slices, depending on the size of the tomato, but it can be enough for a meal. Just ask the ladies who lunch on nothing else.

Anthony Butkovich

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