Cuff links: The calzones at Romano's Italian Restaurant (1528 West Gray, 713-526-1182) come in two varieties: mozzarella and ricotta cheese ($5.25) and the Special ($7.75), which contains just about everything that can fit into this neat package. The word calzone means "trousers" in Italian, and the stuffed pizza dish may be so named because it resembles the turned-up cuffs at the bottom of a pair of pants. Exactly when a pizza turned in on itself and became a calzone is not clear; while some say the dish originated in Naples, others believe it was a 1950s invention of the Italian-American community in this country. At Romano's, you can add a stuffing to your calzone (or a topping to your New York-style pizza) for 75 cents. The calzones are served with a robust but sweet homemade tomato dipping sauce, a large pot of which can always be found simmering on the stove.