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Supermodel Cuisine

Don't bring an appetite to hip new Ling and Javier. You may not be able to eat what you order.

And whoever prepared this salad is no sushi chef. The slices of albacore are an awful dried-blood color, and some are shot through with white threads. These inedible sinews have to be inelegantly extracted from the mouth after the fish is chewed. Some slices are so riddled with sinew I don't even attempt to eat them.

Strike a pose: The diners at hip Ling and Javier look ever ready to be photographed.
Deron Neblett
Strike a pose: The diners at hip Ling and Javier look ever ready to be photographed.

Location Info

Map

Hotel Derek

2525 W. Loop S.
Houston, TX 77027

Category: Hotels and Resorts

Region: Greenway Plaza

Details

713-297-4383. Breakfast: Monday through Friday, 6:30 a.m. to 10:30 a.m.; Saturday and Sunday, 7:30 a.m. to 10:30 a.m. Lunch: daily, 11:30 a.m. to 2:30 p.m. Dinner: Sunday through Wednesday, 5:30 p.m. to 11 p.m.; Thursday through Saturday, 5:30 p.m. to midnight.

Stir-fried lamb with crispy noodles: $19
Wok-roasted mussels: $8
Lobster Cantonese packages: $9
Siu mai potstickers: $9
Jade flower chicken wontons: $8
Corn tamale with ropa vieja: $9
Cuban beefsteak: $26
Pan-fried grouper and mashed plantains: $18
Saffron potato and albacore tuna: $11

Hotel Derek, 2525 West Loop South

I manage to get a few more bites of the grouper before my tablemate polishes it off. We've abandoned the awful tuna. The salad could have been a big hit, but the kitchen didn't have the chops to pull off the kind of innovative dish the chef imagined. And that's too bad, because there aren't very many good ideas on the ever-so-clever menu at Ling and Javier.

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