Legend has it that former Houston Oilers coach Bum Phillips was so impressed with this appetizer the first time he tasted it that he proceeded to order two more platters for his main course. I can understand why. The Marineros ($14) at Churrascos (2055 Westheimer, 713-527-8300; 9705 Westheimer, 713-952-1988) are blue crab fingers like no others. Twenty-four of these two-inch digits are smoked over burning corn husks to give them a note of sweetness, then served in a starburst pattern around a creamy chile-lime-butter dipping sauce. There is no delicate way to eat them; you must simply stick the whole finger in your mouth and pull the meat off with the backs of your teeth. Don't be ashamed to order another platter for dinner.