Bow-Tied Wonder

Plus: Boola Boola, Fault and Pepper, On Blue Berryhill

H.T. Roth

On Blue Berryhill

Yellow? Aw, shucks! As a longtime customer of Berryhill's Hot Tamales, I was interested to read another chapter in its saga ["Berry Busy," by Marene Gustin, May 9]. I started frequenting the original restaurant when it opened in 1993 and have witnessed many changes in the menu, particularly after the departure of Chuck Bulnes.

No offense to chef Brooks, as he does an admirable job, but I am not sure he ever personally tasted the original recipes as they were implemented in the halcyon days. The original tamales were smaller and softer, made with white corn meal and served up with a long-gone but divine brown sauce. I have never had anything like them before or since. Back then they were billed as being -- you guessed it -- almost exactly like Walter Berryhill's 1928 recipe. So imagine my surprise at seeing the large and unfortunately typical yellow corn tamales served these days described as being nearly identical to the 1928 recipe as well.

Which is it? Gustatory minds want to know! Can I at least have the recipe for the fantastic tamales the restaurant started with? I recently had the pleasure of sampling the fare at the new San Antonio location, and am happy to report that franchising has not damaged the product -- it's at least as good as the current Houston offerings.

Matt Sisk

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