Light Blue Special

The Rainbow Lodge (1 Birdsall, 713-861-8666) is blessed with spectacular views overlooking Buffalo Bayou -- and a spectacular Texas blue crab salad ($12.95). Blue crabs, so named because of their blue claws and shells, are readily available on the Gulf and Atlantic coasts. But the presentation here is not as common: It's a cylinder with a base of shredded lettuce, an abundant portion of sweet, succulent jumbo crabmeat and a relish topping made of the tiniest cubes of cucumbers, tomatoes and yellow bell peppers. A puddle of spicy pink rémoulade with giant green capers covers the remainder of the plate. No matter how daintily you attempt to extract the first forkful, the structure is bound to tumble down, dispersing the rainbow effect across the whole plate.

Anthony Butkovich

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