A Toast to Julia and Paul

In the latest issue of Gourmet magazine, I read that Julia Child's late husband, Paul, enjoyed concocting cocktails almost as much as his wife loves to cook. So I ambled over to Muldoon's (3200 Kirby Drive, 713-526-5595) to sample a drink that Paul invented in Paris more than 50 years ago, the Himalaya Sunrise. The reaction when I ordered was predictable: Why on earth would anyone want to ruin a perfectly good martini? The first cocktail was unimpressive -- I didn't specify the vodka, and an additional maraschino cherry sent the sugar level way over the top. But the second was made with Skyy vodka, and believe it or not, it didn't taste that bad. So I ordered a third and started talking to the guy behind the bar about the photograph proudly displayed on Muldoon's wall and matchbook covers. It's a shot of owner Chuck as a baby in the arms of his grinning father, a star football player nicknamed Muldoon. All these years later, now Chuck is the proud father of a seven-month-old baby boy, and if you ask him, he'll even show you a picture or two.

Muldoon's Himalaya Sunrise:
1 1/2 ounces Skyy vodka
1 1/2 drops Martini & Rossi vermouth
1 teaspoon maraschino cherry juice
1 maraschino cherry

In a martini shaker filled with ice, add vodka and vermouth. Shake or stir (but not both) and pour into a chilled martini glass. Add juice and drop in the cherry. Extend pinkie finger and raise a toast to Julia's 90th birthday and her late husband, Paul.