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Don't Go Changin'

1415 Bar & Grille

A A A Comments (0) By Paul Galvani Thursday, Apr 10 2003

While the restaurant may have changed its name from Sonoma to 1415 Bar & Grille (so named for its address, 1415 California, 713-977-7911), one dish did not undergo a makeover: the braised crackling pork shank ($16). Slow-braising ensures that the meat falls easily from the bone while the exterior crackling remains crisp. The pork shank sits on a lively relish of caramelized onions, black beans and corn kernels. And, as if this weren't enough, it's served with a decadent pecan-topped sweet potato torte, as well as a mixture of fresh green beans, carrots and cauliflower brushed with a generous coating of garlic butter. Some things need not change.