That is, unless you're ordering from Shanghai River (2407 Westheimer, 713-528-5528). The River Oaks restaurant, which serves true Chinese cuisine, is an elegant oasis of Oriental splendor tucked into a strip center next to a RadioShack. Whether ordered in or taken out, the dishes here are top-notch delicacies made from old China recipes. Try the chicken in hot garlic sauce ($9.25), which, if you're a bit chicken yourself, can be ordered with less spice. But we say go for the gusto and get it hot and spicy. The dish has tender broccoli heads and water chestnuts simmering in a dark garlic sauce and comes with a huge bowl of fluffy, sticky rice. If you get it to go, be sure to ask for extra chile sauce. You won't be sorry.