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Mycological Masterpiece

Shade

Mushroom lovers will revel in the mixed mushroom phyllo strudel ($8.75) at Shade (250 West 19th Street, 713-863-7500), the restaurant recently opened by Claire Smith, founder of Daily Review Cafe. Three different types of mushrooms -- portobello, button and porcini -- are stuffed into two triangular pockets of flaky pastry, then baked to a golden-brown finish. These sit atop tenderly sautéed, fresh baby spinach, which in turn sits on a bed of Israeli couscous, which is larger and less absorbent than the semolina-based North African kind and has a spongy texture similar to tapioca. It's a round, pellet-like pasta, not unlike the rice-shaped pasta known as orzo. Since mushrooms do well in the shade, this seems to be the perfect place to enjoy them.
Daniel Kramer

Location Info

Map

Shade

250 W. 19th St.
Houston, TX 77008

Category: Restaurant > American

Region: Heights

 
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