Transcendent Tacos

Laredo Taqueria serves up authentic Tex-Mex -- and that's not an oxymoron

Comments (0) By Robb Walsh Thursday, Aug 26 2004

I stand outside after dinner, studying the daily specials, which are listed on a sign on the door. The entire outside of the building is covered with signs extolling the tamale plates, the cheese enchiladas, the fajitas and other specials and combinations. But I can't make any sense of the jumble. I guess you can't judge a taqueria by its exterior.

A few weeks ago, I reviewed another taqueria. 100% Taquito claims to be "the only place in Houston where you can truly experience authentic Mexican food." When I didn't entirely agree with that claim, the owner wrote me to say that I am missing the point about his Mexican food and that at least it isn't Tex-Mex, which is a garbled imitation of the real thing.

Troy Fields

Visit Laredo Taqueria at breakfast or lunch, when the tortillas are fresh off the griddle.

Location Info

Map

Laredo Taco Place

915 Snover St.
Houston, TX 77007

Category: Restaurant > Mexican

Region: Heights

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Laredo Taco Place

113 Cavalcade
Houston, TX 77009

Category: Restaurant > Mexican

Region: Heights

Laredo Taqueria

311 Patton St.
Houston, TX 77009

Category: Restaurant > Mexican

Region: Heights

Details

All tacos: 99 cents
Cheese enchiladas: $2.99
Three tamales with rice and beans: $4.95

311 Patton, 713-695-0504. Hours: 6 a.m. to 9 p.m. daily.

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To him I would reply: There is such a thing as authentic Tex-Mex, and at its best it far surpasses some of the lame versions of authentic Mexican food that abound in Houston. But the proof, as they say, is in the eating.

Go to Laredo Taqueria on Patton, put one of their breakfast tacos or squash-and pork-tacos in your mouth, and taste the flavor of a lovingly prepared taco. This is what it's all about.