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Published on September 23, 2004

Tampico Seafood & Cocina MexicanaThere are a lot of Mexican seafood restaurants in Houston, but none is as consistent as Tampico. Named after the seaside city on the Mexican Gulf Coast, this little oyster bar and grill has brought the best of our neighbor's seafood traditions to the north side of the border. You never have to wonder what kind of fish you're eating here; you buy your whole fish from the counter and pay for it by the pound. It's seasoned with red achiote paste and served a la plancha over soft cooked onions and green peppers on a sizzling comal. The cocteles are schooners full of cold-boiled shrimp, octopus, or your choice of other seafood mixed up with lime juice, onions, tomatoes, avocado pieces and cilantro in a ketchup-based cocktail sauce. To eat them Tampico-style, squeeze in more lime juice, and add a few drops of hot pepper sauce, then scoop some out on a cracker.