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Steak and Peanut Butter

Lemongrass Cafe: A hip Bellaire spot with a hit-or-miss menu

The sight of the same sort of egg-packaged pad thai at Lemongrass Cafe made me hope that I was in for a treat. But under the sheet of eggs, the noodles were barely seasoned. The sauce was boring, and there wasn't enough of it to make the noodles stick together. And the only chile sauce was a squirt-bottle painting on the side of the plate. The dish was so dull, it barely resembled pad thai anymore.

Granted, Lemongrass Cafe isn't trying to be a Thai restaurant. So it's not fair to complain when we aren't hit with the freight train of flavors typical of that cuisine. But let's hope that as the young Thai chef grows in confidence, she will dare to drop a few of the menu's more flavorless dishes and replace them with zestier Asian fusion inventions.

On a hit-or-miss menu, the beef satay wrap, ceviche 
and sticky rice dessert are all hits.
Troy Fields
On a hit-or-miss menu, the beef satay wrap, ceviche and sticky rice dessert are all hits.

Location Info

Map

Lemongrass Cafe

5109 Bellaire Blvd.
Bellaire, TX 77401

Category: Restaurant > Thai

Region: Inner Loop - SW

Details

Beef satay wrap: $8.50
Truffle siu mai: $6.50
Spicy Thai ceviche: $7
Korean osso buco: $16.50
Wood-grilled rib eye: $18.50
Pad thai: $9
5109 Bellaire Boulevard, 713-664-6698. Hours: 11 a.m. to 2:30 p.m. and 5 p.m. to 10 p.m. Mondays through Fridays; 5 p.m. to 10 p.m. Saturdays

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Vora is obviously a dedicated and hardworking chef. I'm confident that the process of trial and error will lead her to a menu of solid hits. She should have plenty of time to work on it. Bellaire is so starved for chic restaurants that the Lemongrass Cafe is already a local favorite.

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