Banana Breakfast

Not only was the loroco better than usual, so were the pupusas. The masa they were made from tasted lighter, and the pupusas seemed more supple than usual. If you've never had pupusas before, this is a great place to try them.

Troy Fields

Salvadoran coffee and cashew fruit juice go great with Sabor!'s house specialty, huevos en tuza.

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Sabor! Central American Cuisine

5712 Bellaire Blvd.
Houston, TX 77081

Category: Restaurant > Central American

Region: Outer Loop - SW

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Details

Hours: 8 a.m. to 9 p.m. daily

Huevos en tuza: $6.25
Puerto La Unión: $6.25
Plate of fried plantains: $5
Crema de mariscos: $11.95
Pupusas: $1.65 each
Tamales: $1.50 each

5712 Bellaire Boulevard, 713-667-6001

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More About

• Stella Link
• Houston (Texas)
• Styrofoam
• Mexican Food and Cooking
• Food and Cooking

Sabor! is an attempt to take Salvadoran food upscale by the same people who own the El Pupusatón pupuserías in Houston. Sabor!'s polished granite tables, cafe-au-lait tile floors and cheerful, butter-yellow walls make a wonderful first impression. The restaurant is comfortable, charming and clean. But while the pupusas and the breakfasts with fried bananas are outstanding, a visit at dinnertime wasn't as satisfying.

The entrées I sampled were pretty boring. Part of the problem is that the food is designed to appeal to a Central American clientele. Central Americans don't eat spicy food and generally don't use many sauces. They also prefer well-done meat. Fine for breakfast foods, but not what I crave for dinner.

Lomo de res, which was billed as an eight-ounce rib eye, was a flattened piece of overcooked beef served with tasteless parboiled rice and an undressed salad. If that's the best cut of meat on the menu, I shudder to think of what the fajita or the steak with onions tastes like.

Sopa de gallina india is a bland chicken vegetable soup with a dried-out, fried chicken leg quarter on the side. If you crumble the chicken meat into the soup, it's passable.

The house specialty, crema de mariscos a la francesa, is a much better choice of soups. The lunch version I sampled contained shrimp, fish, green mussels and crab in a rich seafood broth spiked with crema, the Central American version of sour cream. The broth was so rich, I thought it contained coconut milk, until the waitress told me the ingredients. According to the menu, the dinner version of the dish comes in a hollowed-out round of french bread. Of course, predictably enough, the one entrée I loved wasn't really Salvadoran food. It was the Salvadoran version of French food.

You probably won't miss much if you pass over Sabor! when you're looking for a place for dinner. But the restaurant is definitely worth a visit if you're in search of a luxurious late breakfast with bananas, or a stunning pupusa-with-loroco lunch.