A meal of pulpo con camarones ($9.50) at Ostioneria 7 Mares (4602 Irvington, 713-692-7776) is an incendiary experience. Eight large butterflied shrimp are cooked with pieces of finely diced octopus in what appears to be straight Tabasco sauce. Raise the first forkful of the bright orange-red dish to your mouth, and a pungent vinegar smell fills your nostrils. Pop it in, and your tongue starts burning, your lips go numb, and tears start forming in your eyes. You'll want to repeat this process again and again -- between long water breaks.