When you consider the amount of effort it takes to consume boiled crawfish, it's a wonder anyone still eats them. Getting your mudbug fix is much easier when someone does the work for you. The crawfish étouffée ($7.95) at the Zydeco Louisiana Diner (1119 Pease, 713-759-2001) is a colorful dish. Its de-shelled crawfish literally are "smothered" by a well-seasoned, thick, orange-brown sauce and stacked high on a bed of white rice. The accompanying yellow cornbread and green bean casserole round out the rainbow of colors.